Arbutus

Image above: Biting into the the starter of squid burger, parsley, razor clams, and sea purslane it was immediately evident why it was an Arbutus classic. [Friday 09 September] | [View all photos]

Although working for a consultancy can be intense it does have its perks too with an all-expenses paid meal every now and again. Last time it was dinner at the fabulous Morito. This time we got to try the renowned Arbutus for lunch.

Unlike eating with friends, who all now are used to waiting for me to photograph each dish before eating – otherwise called “Sam’s Prayer”, I couldn’t impose on my work colleagues. So whilst I didn’t cover every dish suffice it to say they all looked (and tasted) as good as the ones I did shoot.

Such as my starter of squid burger, parsley, razor clams, and sea purslane which is deservedly an Arbutus classic. The razor clam was perfectly cooked but it was the burger made of squid and mackerel that had me wanting more. I liked the dish so much I’ve tried replicating it at home with their recipe without success.

For main course those who went for the roast rabbit with artichokes, carrots, and pancetta just raved about it. Dipping some of my bread in the liquor it wasn’t hard to see why. Rich and flavoursome yet not overpowering. Accompanied by a shoulder cottage pie it was a truly hearty dish.

In contrast I opted for something lighter in a vague attempt to stave off the need for a post-lunch nap on my desk. The cod fillet, crisp chicken wing, peas, and gem lettuce was simple where each component stood out and come together as a whole. Ironically after I had wiped the dish clean my first thought was – I wish there was more of it. Ack – there’s no pleasing me. :)

Dessert beckoned and on one side of me was the warming English plum tart with amaretto ice cream. The other, the work of art that was the cold chocolate fondant, chocolate wafer, and salted caramel ice cream. Unfortunately for me there wasn’t anything that I could choose. Fortunately for me the waiter kindly spoke to the kitchen who whipped up a beautiful looking plate of fruit meringue full of saccharine goodness.

This place really speaks to cooking simply but impeccably. Together with the great service it’s somewhere I’d love to return for dinner next time. And for those of you who want to try Michelin cooking without the usual expense check out their daily 3 course fixed lunch menu for a mere £17 per person – truly a steal.